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  #61  
Old 06-13-2013, 03:36 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Yep. I also had to take off a bit of the material on the inner side of my wheels so the caliper does not catch on them. Was just a minor amount however and as the front is free wheeling wasn't to worried about it ! Lol!
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  #62  
Old 06-15-2013, 02:13 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Got to test the fitment of the mini wheels! Looks like it will be a perfect fit!

The steering linkage will need just a little bit of filing but nothing affecting the structure really. And the size is just perfect!

I think the brakes will fit tightly but should be doable. Will definately put the wheels on the lathe and shave some material from the back face of the wheel.










Last edited by Frederik : 12-26-2018 at 04:59 PM.
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  #63  
Old 06-15-2013, 02:21 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Well I'm not all that sure the brakes will fit that easily in the mini wheels, the pads looks like they will fit but I worry about the brake caliper which needs to be buried in that tiny space in the wheel (to reach the disc that will be almost where the wheel spokes are). It will all depends on the shape of the caliper. I might end up grinding whatever does not fit and JB weld it to one of the aluminum pieces of the strut.





Fred

Last edited by Frederik : 12-26-2018 at 04:59 PM.
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  #64  
Old 06-15-2013, 04:35 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
Well I'm not all that sure the brakes will fit with the mini wheels, the pads looks like they will fit but I worry about the brake caliper which needs to be buried in that tiny space in the wheel (to reach the disc that will be almost where the wheel spokes are). It will all depends on the shape of the caliper. I might end up grinding whatever does not fit and JB weld it to one of the aluminum pieces of the strut.





Fred
Wow....! That looks tight! Does the spin freely? Kinda looks like the bottom of the knuckle is touching the inside of the wheel!
Also remember the thickness of the disc at the hex is about 7mms. In my case it moved the wheel out by about 3 mms on each side!
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  #65  
Old 06-16-2013, 09:01 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Yes, you got a sharp eye! Lol it does contact at the bottom right in the pic. But I am nkt worried about tha at all, I can just file it a little and it will be ok. I think my current hex are 6mm so with the discs there should be small difference. The tighter part will be the caliper, i doub i will fit as is given its rectangular shape. Will have to mod! Good thing I will have a couple of spare calipers!

Fred
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  #66  
Old 06-17-2013, 07:00 AM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Yep...! Always good to have spares!
When you get the kit and parts you will have a better idea of how to go about it...but just based on the pic and my experience with mine, I think you could maybe remove some of the material next to the bearing (towards the front of the wheel) and use the caliper mount from the kit with some modding so it attaches to that piece? Ha! Just an idea, however, I know that you are quite capable of resolving it! Man, those struts are gonna be awesome!
I will have to replicate when you are done!

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  #67  
Old 06-17-2013, 08:12 AM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Haha yes thanks, all suggestions are much welcome. Hearing what others think is always good, even when it does not end up like the initial idea it can trigger new ideas.

Remember the screws I mentioned that I would have to add to sandwich the 3 strut pieces together? This side of the strut will likely have two screws for that, hex head towards the inside of the car. Might just put a small L shaped mount and use the 2 said screws to hold the L support.

And the L support would be JBWelded to the caliper. That way I could trim the caliper at the edges where the normal mounting screws are, and make it fit in there (hopefully!).

I would use thin steel sheets I have for that L support, so it can be really thin, and easy to JBWeld on the caliper. Hopefully the brake parts arrive tonight!

Fred
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  #68  
Old 06-17-2013, 09:28 AM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Yep! That sounds so crazy it just might work! lol! Just joking!
Seriously, I think your idea is the best way to approach it! I forgot all about the screws to sandwich the plates! I guess I'm just excited to see it come together!
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  #69  
Old 06-17-2013, 09:59 AM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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I will probably still need to remove some of the knuckle aluminium anyway, depending on the shape of the caliper. As long as I keep enough space to place the two "sandwitch" screws on this side of the strut I should be good!
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  #70  
Old 06-18-2013, 09:41 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Ok I got all the brakes parts as well as some styrene bits (wing, and bumpers!! thanks to Trinity2dBone!) and now the real headscratching begins lol

The discs are pretty small which is great for the mini wheels, but it will still be a challenge to fit the brakes with the mini wheels. Here is a close up shot of the wheel+brake next to the brake+caliper:




See how the screws and washers to hold the pads take approximately twice the space of what is available between the disc and the rim. Few options I have thought about, but no real solution yet, might be a mix of all:

- I can machine the inside of the wheel a bit to shave some plastic and make the inside of the wheel slightly larger. But I'll have to measure the thickness first and make sure I keep enough so it stays strong.

- I can machine the disc to a slightly smaller diameter, but then I'll have more trouble fitting the caliper to strut as it will need to be even more towards the center.


I see why Trinity2DBone got few mm wider each side with the discs, because the part of the disc that is actually hex is much shorter than normal hex, so it does not sit in the bottom of the wheel (there is space between hex face and inside the hex in the wheel). I will machine the wheels on the lathe to shorten the wheel's hex hole so it is just deep enough, and I will definately have to machine the inside spokes too.

Some more pics comparing normal touring car wheels with the minis. Of course there would be no problem whatsoever fitting in the touring car wheels but I would really like to use the minis...





Last edited by Frederik : 12-26-2018 at 05:01 PM.
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  #71  
Old 06-18-2013, 09:45 PM
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cant wait to get my kit!! i ordered RC4wd discs and 2.2 Axial Trail Ready Beadlocks. so i really hope it all just bolts together nicely. fingers crossed and cant wait!!
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  #72  
Old 06-19-2013, 12:25 AM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Looking good Frederik !

Now the real head scratching begins ehh? lol!


@ Klampy..... The cables that come with the kit are really short..! They were cut specifically for the motorbike measurements. So you may need to pick up a longer piece. The only ones I found that were workable were the Sullivan's gold n cable!
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  #73  
Old 06-19-2013, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trini2DBone View Post
Klampy..... The cables that come with the kit are really short..! They were cut specifically for the motorbike measurements. So you may need to pick up a longer piece. The only ones I found that were workable were the Sullivan's gold n cable!
yea, im actually not expecting to use much of the stock cable. im not sure how im going to get it out past the rims due to the offset/width im aiming to run... time will tell.
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  #74  
Old 06-19-2013, 09:58 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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For the headlights I am tempted to go with what Rangeman used in his range rover classic build thread :

http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/sho...t=73737&page=4







Here is the link he posted for the lights, the size looks suitable for the escort:

http://dx.com/p/20mm-light-diffusing...ck-4600?item=8

Last edited by Frederik : 06-19-2013 at 09:59 PM. Reason: Fixed image links
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  #75  
Old 06-19-2013, 10:28 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Wow! That looks sweet! 4 bucks for a pk of 10 with free shipping?

Noooooo....! I don't wanna install lights..
But I still want them in my parts drawer! Lol!

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