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Scale 1.9's Scale trucks that use 1.9" tires. Discuss your XC and similar type trucks.


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  #1  
Old 03-21-2020, 01:13 AM
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Default Just a 2-door XJ for 1.7s.

Hey, folks! It's been a while!

I thought I was done with scalers after my unfinishd H3 build like..jeeze..10 years ago? Well, some guys I fly with pulled me back in. Get a crawler, they said! It'll be fun, they said!

They were right, of course!

I still have the H3 but I was never really happy with not being able to find wheels and tires I liked for it. So I wanted to try something new. So, searching around for bodies, I found this 2-door XJ.

Sure, it's not 100% accurate proportion-wise. But it's close enough!

Since I needed a 275mm wheelbase chassis I went with a Gelande II. And after a bunch of orders from a bunch of places and waiting patiently for parts to come in, I got started.





And these are the results so far.







I used a Boom Racing D90 rear suspension up front to give that scale XJ coil spring/strut arrangement. Leaf springs in the back. Since I'm going for that stock look I used 60mm shocks front and rear since at 1/9th scale that's about as close to the stock strut size I could get. I've got 'scale' shocks on the way, those on there now are temporary for mock-up purposes. Also need much softer springs for the front end.

Also got a set of 1.7" 10-oval stamped steelies on the way. At 1/9th scale those are +-15", and I'll be using 1.7" semi tires, which are equal to +-29" tires.

So far so good! I'm actually surprised how little work it's taken to get things that were never meant to fit together to fit together. The only problem I've run into so far is that with the lower 'stock' ride height the front driveshafts don't clear the transmission at full up-travel, but I'll fight that fight when I get to it.

Last edited by rampage : 03-21-2020 at 01:27 AM. Reason: Trying to fix image size.
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  #2  
Old 03-22-2020, 02:16 AM
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She's a runner.

Titan 21t 550 out of a 1st gen EMaxx should provide tons of torque. XL-5 ESC and a HS-985mg



Half-way decent articulation even with the small 60mm shocks. I also replaced the front coil springs with much softer springs. I think they're old Tamiya springs from their friction shocks, but I'm not 100% sure. They were in one of my parts bins.



And a test-fit of the flares. The body came with wide flares but Club 5 Racing offers a set of OEM XJ flares that fit pretty good. I'll have to figure out how I want to mount them and I'll have to fill the holes for the flares the body came with.





Anyone have any suggestions on what kind of filler to use on this plastic?

Anyway, coming along good. Can't wait to get the wheels and tires.
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Old 03-22-2020, 07:25 AM
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I like this one...but I think those tires are bald and won't help much off road.

I know you said it's proportionally off but, what bothered me about these 2-door bodies are the doors are 4-door sized. The 2-door versions have longer doors since they share the same wheelbase. Kinda makes it look like it's been bobbed. Still gonna be cool...still gonna be unique, since there are very few 2 door versions built.

As for a filler, I would use styrene rod to fill the fender holes and Plastruct Bondene with orange label. It's made for dissimilar plastic bonding.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FDFWJD8..._t1_B0006O09M4

Pickup a few different sized styrene rods and feed them into the holes from the inside, keeping them a little long to trim off after. Then dab each one, from the inside, with the glue and wait to cure up. Cut the excess off and sand to perfection. I would just use some of the Squadron brand putty for the door handle recess under the rear window.
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Old 03-22-2020, 08:31 AM
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Ohhhhhhhh
My eyes are happy....
Will be stealing front suspension ideas for a Bronco build currently under progress.

Well done my friend.
I'll be watching this one very close.
More please.

Super glue and baking soda for filler of holes is my suggestion.
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Old 03-22-2020, 02:51 PM
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Thanks for the tips!

Yeah, the doors are too short. I realized that when I realized that 2-door and 4-door XJs had the same wheelbase yet this body has a shorter wheelbase. I knew something had to be off and came to the conclusion that it's definitely the front door. Which makes sense because they use the same "cab" for the 2-door, 4-door and Comanche bodies.

Still, better than nothing.

The roof also has a sort of "panel" outline in it. Like it has roof panels like a JK hard top. So I'll have to fill those in too. As well as the faux vents on the hood.

What grit sandpaper should I use when I start sanding? I've never finished a hardbody before so this will be a first.

Also here's a rough fit of the interior.

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Old 03-23-2020, 12:58 PM
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320 grit sanding sponge is my favorite.
Buy two and you can rub them together to get about a 500 grit out of them.
Knocks the grit down...
Even better if you run water over body while initialy doing the first sanding.
They last a long time.
Granted you purchase a decent quality of sponge. 3m brand etc.

hope this helps.
Really excited to see more of this one. Your off to a greta start on it and it's just different from the norm.
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Old 03-23-2020, 02:49 PM
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Thanks for the advice! Looking forward to getting to the body work. I ordered some filler putty and some styrene rods that I'm hoping are the right diameter so we'll go from there when that gets here.

I'm waiting for my wheels and tires. The shipping label was created by RC4WD on the 18th and then nothing since then. Tracking still says awaiting package acceptance. For as much as they charged me in shipping I figured I'd have it by now.
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Old 03-24-2020, 01:19 AM
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Sitting around browsing eBay for scaler parts is dangerous!

I ordered some RC4WD 70mm Old Man Emu shocks for the front. They're yellow. And I have black boots for them. I couldn't help myself. I figured I could keep the current ride height by moving the shocks up a hole or two on the shock tower. But even at the ride height I have with the 60mm shocks I have an issue with the driveshafts binding against the bottom of the transmission housing at max up-travel. Mostly because the Gelande 80mm driveshafts have some sort of odd flange on them that catches and binds.

So I ordered some 80mm-110mm steel driveshafts that have a round flange on them. They're also narrower. Should buy me a little bit of clearance and even if they do make contact with the trans case they shouldn't bind.

Also ordered some Associated 12mm buggy front shocks in soft and medium rates to try to tune the front coils. The Tamiya springs up front worked okay until I put the motor and steering servo up front and now they droop a bit. Need something with a bit more stiffness, but not much. Hopefully these will work.

I've been seriously contemplating fender wells. On my H3 I just used some plastic bowls and cut them and painted them. I'll probably do the same here, even though RC4WD makes 2 inner fender sets for the Gelande. One for the FJ body and one for the D90 body. The FJ's rear fenders look too small to work with the XJ body but the D90's look like they'd probably work, but of course they're out of stock. So if they're not back in stock by the time I'm ready, bowls it'll be.

Also ordered a Bruiser driver. Because 7 inch and 8 inch figures are expensive. Plus I have a buddy that paints tabletop figurines and he paints my airplane pilots too. The man's a wizard when it comes to paint.



So c'mon RC4WD. Ship my wheels and tires. I'm itching to see if those Long Hauls will fit the 1.7 steelies.
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Old 03-24-2020, 11:45 AM
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Started my front bumper.

First thing I've ever 3D printed.



The only bumper I could find a premade file for that'll fit this body has the bumper blocks on the front, which if I recall was a Grand Cherokee thing? But I've seen 2-door XJs with them too. So all's fair in love, war, 3D printing and scale trucks.
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Old 03-24-2020, 01:53 PM
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Front bumper's done and temporarily mocked up.









Credit for the 3D file goes to this guy. He did an awesome job. I'll be getting his OEM roof rack too.

Still nothing from RC4WD. Shipping label was created a week ago and that's it.
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Old 03-24-2020, 04:43 PM
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Man this is just coming along fantastic.
Really exciting to see it take shape.
Bumper is the bomb.....wow!
This will be one great little xj no doubts.
MOre please.
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:55 PM
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Little bit of an update.

I got the 60mm RC4WD shocks in for the front. They work much better than the temporaries I had there. I may replace them with the yellow 70mms but I really don't want to increase the ride height so I may take the shaft out of the 60s and put them in the 70s. See how that works out. Because yellow struts are cool. That's simply a law of automotive anything.



Also added inner fenders. Because is it really a scale build without inner fenders? The answer is yes, of course, but I wanted to do it anyway. They're 3D printed and designed for the D90 body but they're pretty close. I had to significantly modify the fronts because I'm not using the stock front shock towers and the front of the body sits pretty low. Lots of trimming on the fronts. Also extended them a bit with some scrap lexan and painted. Will probably extend the rears the same way to get a better overall fit. 3D print files are credited to this guy. They came out great! The only problem is now I can't squeeze my fat finger up under the body anymore to turn on the XL-5, so I ordered a new ESC with a proper on/off switch and I'll locate that somewhere accessible.



And to top it all off, literally, I installed an OEM-style roof rack.



Again, 3D printed. Source and credit goes here. They were designed for the 4-door and since the 2-door is shorter wheelbase, it has a shorter roof, so I had to cut it down a fair bit. But they're really cool. The cross-bars lock into place on a rail and actually slide like the real thing.

I'm liking the look a lot so far! Even if it is a little bit stubby.



Wheels and tires will be here tomorrow!

Also, a question.

I have 2 motor choices. I have a Titan 21-turn 550 out of a 1st gen EMaxx. Tons of torque, good wheelspeed. Very heavy, very long. I also have a Novak Fifty Five, purpose-built crawler motor, tons of torque, low wheelspeed. Shorter and much lighter.

Given the choice of the two motors which would you run?
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rampage View Post
Started my front bumper.

First thing I've ever 3D printed.

The only bumper I could find a premade file for that'll fit this body has the bumper blocks on the front, which if I recall was a Grand Cherokee thing? But I've seen 2-door XJs with them too. So all's fair in love, war, 3D printing and scale trucks.
If you would rather have it without the blocks on the front, I can fix that for you in no time. shoot me a pm

the truck is really looking good. Keep it up.
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Old 03-26-2020, 07:48 PM
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Thanks for the offer! I appreciate it! But honestly the blocks on the front are starting to grow on me. I like the character it gives. And since they were a feature on some XJ stock front bumpers I think they can stay.

But maybe you can help me out with something else? I'm new to 3D printing. That bumper was the first thing I ever printed. Can you tell me why this happens and how I can fix it?



This has happened on both of the print attempts for the cross bars on the roof rack and I'm at a bit of a loss.

As for the build.

As excited as I was to get my order from RC4WD I feel it's left me in a weird spot.





The wheels look fantastic and give me exactly the look I was going for. The tires were an experiment to see if the 1.7" semi tires would fit the 1.7" non-semi wheels. Sadly, no. The inner diameter of the semi tires is just fractionally larger than 1.7" (RC4WD actually has them listed at 1.71" now) and they don't fit properly over the beadlock ring. If someone was using non-beadlock wheels they'd probably work fine.

Easily fixed. I ordered a set of the 1.7" Patagonias, which are only slightly larger in outer diameter and will fit the wheels properly. They're also wider. The real problem I'm running into is I didn't realize that the wheels had positive offset...

They're pushed WAY in, aren't they?

And since they don't use hex adapters, and RC4WD apparently doesn't make a hex adapter kit for these wheels, I'm at a bit of a loss. Normally I'd just use wider hexes, like those from the front of a Slash, or something similar. But I can't do that in this instance.

Anyone got any ideas for widening the offset of these wheels a bit.
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:13 PM
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I see 3 possible solutions to wheels.

1. Some type of spacer for the wheel to bolt to. Either order wide aluminum hex's and just drill them for the 5 lug pattern and bore the center of the wheel to allow the wheel nut to pass through or just a spacer between the pin adapter and wheel with longer bolts.

2. Reband the wheels by cutting off the front wheel lip close to bead area and rear lip further in and the swap them. This would give a deeper dish wheel look too though which may or may not go with the look you are trying for.

3. Wider axle swap.
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