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Rogue Element Components Fine Custom and Limited-Edition Machine Work


View Poll Results: What 3rd color option would be wanted?
Blue 4 36.36%
Green 0 0%
Red 8 72.73%
Other 1 9.09%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

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  #151  
Old 10-18-2019, 12:04 PM
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Boy, now THAT's an interesting thought right there. Ano usually used 'fade-resistant' dyes, but the Sun doesn't care about that, given time. I wonder if there is another High-UV source that does not cost much and can be tried? In theory it should work- Stu, you have an active mind for sure.

What ticks me of is, I drive these up to the Springs. I talked to the actual chap doing the work and the owner, make sure they know just what is wanted, that they carefully handle several months of work, hit the correct color, put enough juice to the plates with the screws, mount the centers so there is not a mark from same in a critical area........Like so many business these days, it seems their payment is the only important thing to them & the customer is an inconvenient necessity. You chaps might not know how anal I am about even minor details, so this hit me right in the face (Actually about 3 feet lower.)

Anyway, divorced from the circumstances, and the fact that they are not my original vision, the color is kinda growing on me. Suing that bass turd is not practical, nor is any other option, or I'd have been all over it: So acceptance is hard but ultimately the only real route available, and it is happening for me which I'd have never bet on- These wheels are very special nonetheless.

I have neglected to post pics of the orther centers that are done, I'll remedy that tonight/tomorrow. Looking at 30-45 days and do not foresee any technical issues ahead, just lots of....Time. Cheers to all you spectacularly decent folks, Chris REC






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  #152  
Old 10-19-2019, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
I wonder if there is another High-UV source that does not cost much and can be tried? In theory it should work-
Hang 'em up next to the welding table? You'd probably have to burn a lot of wire to have a noticeable effect, though.

Apparently, heat (over 400F) can fade anodizing, too. Bake a sample in the oven and see what happens.
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  #153  
Old 10-19-2019, 07:09 AM
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Here you go. Guess which one got hit with a MAPP torch for 30 seconds.

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This is a thin piece, so it heated up quickly and the color change was very rapid. You'd have a little more control with a thicker piece like a wheel center, but maybe not enough. By the time I saw it begin to change and took the heat off, the change had started to run away.

Interestingly, the blue changed to red. I only heated the red bit but enough heat went thru to change the blue.

If anyone wants to try this, I'd suggest keeping a bucket of water handy, and drop the piece in there RIGHT NOW when you see the color change to what you want.

Want to fade all 4 of 'em to exactly the same shade? Stick 'em in the oven and keep watch.
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  #154  
Old 10-19-2019, 07:30 AM
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Experiment two: Propane torch. More time, better control. I had a few seconds to see the change and remove the torch and got a true fade to pink.

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Second pic shows the uneven fade on the blue bottom piece. If anyone wants to try this, you will probably have this effect near the wheel hex, where the material is thicker.

Also notice the cracking/crazing effect on the anodized finish. This is the first thing you'll see when the color starts to change (and will probably annoy anyone who's paying big bucks for anodized wheels). Micro-cracks form in the ano and the edges start to glow. When you see that, it's gonna change pronto.

I should add that I completely failed to read the parts with a temp gun. Only just now thought about it
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  #155  
Old 10-20-2019, 07:33 AM
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Final experiment: set ano'd part on a piece of steel. Welded a 3-inch seam, 4 passes, 2 inches from the part. No discernible effect on color (shielded half the part with tape, and couldn't see any line afterward).

I suppose a real scientist would have kept going until there was a color change, but this was all the material and gas I was willing to waste.

Chris, you might want to take pics outside. Fluorescent lights kinda suck for true color photography. Could be that's the whole problem.
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  #156  
Old 10-20-2019, 08:46 AM
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Okay, so I lied. THIS is the final experiment. I think.

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Toaster oven, first at 375 then at 450, very little effect. Slight crazing in the ano, but no color change after 20 minutes. Back to the propane.

This piece is thicker than the previous test pieces, different manufacturer but more or less the same color anodizing. Remembered the temp gun this time.

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Heat with propane, back & forth over the whole piece. I wanted to see the effect the heat would have on the thin red fitting and thin blue tube and the thick blue receiver for the fitting. As expected the thinner parts faded while the thick bit held fast. Compare to the 90 degree fitting for color reference.

Noticed some fade at 384F. Much slower this time because of the thicker material. Dunked the piece in cold water to stop the fading.

Much less crazing, more controllable color change.

Here's what I don't know. The MAPP experiment got the blue to change to red/purple and the red to fade. But I don't have an orange/gold part to play with. Maybe heat makes it more orange.

Anyone who wants to try this should heat the wheel from the back, and concentrate the heat near the center hex area, but spread it around some. The crazing effect is worst on the sections directly exposed to heat.
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  #157  
Old 10-21-2019, 01:55 PM
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Man Stu!! You are a Bulldog once something sparks your interest!

I have never before seen any info on fading ano purposely. While the non- REC part of me is very interested, the REC part just reminds folks that these are irreplaceable. And while I appreciate the idea that natural light vs. fluorescent might be the issue, in all honesty.....These beasties are orange.

Now, this is NOT official on my part, but...IF one tries to fade their centers, all you need accomplish is the face really.

Remember that when I show the centers, most of that real estate will be hidden between the wheel halves- That 86's most of the color right there. And the highlights remove even more: So they won't be quite as in-your-face as the pics make it look. Maybe I should post pics with the centers in a wheel? But that's more time away from real work, you'll be seeing them soon, methinks. Maybe one when I post the other centers (Which are all done except a handful that have to be stripped & re-ano'd.) I will strip these myself, Caswell supplies due today.

It will all boil down to Super-nice Ltd. Edition Serial #'d wheels that are not Gold, and living without the wheels.

Damn I hate even having to talk about this- I swear to Gawd if I ever offer another product that's anodized, I'll go back to doing it myself. I HATE farming things out. The incompetance of 4 other machine shops is why I got my degree & machinery in the first friggin' place. Chris REC
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  #158  
Old 11-12-2019, 05:36 PM
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Mmmkay so here's the status: In 7 days or less, I'll be finishing the centers that got messed up & needed re-ano- Ready to ship in a couple days, they ano, ship back. I need to keep that setup in place until they're done, so a bit of delay, but not really- I made a tool for the lathe to do the beadlock inner pieces, which were gonna have to wait but now I can get 'em while other stuff is happening (Re-ano etc.) All stubs cut, BOY lots faster doing plastic tubing than solid 3" metal rod.

After those, nuts will not take long, say 3 days. COA's just need stamped. So, within 15 days here is what should be all done: Centers, beadlock inserts, nuts, COA's, screws, & long tubes. leaving some minor but tedious finishing on the short tubes, packing, doing intsructions with assembly tips- You ARE gonna want to read 'em BEFORE assembling!-and I'm sure something else will pop up to be a pain.....

So yeah, these are gonna run right into Christmas, as an added friggin' bonus. This will not be a prob for the well-heeled but will be for the rest of us, so no worries, I will work with anyone who needs more time- I get it, indeed.

Finally, when I was dropping off the re-ano's, I compared their Orange to my centers. (Yes, Orange was the chosen color, as their Gold is Very light & would have actually looked worse.) In natural light, they match pretty well, and they look nice a warm Gold, as desired. It is the artificial light that these look so Orange in. Now, this makes no difference in the end, but while they did screw up $275 worth of black screws that I had to purchase to replace & a couple dozen centers that are stripped & are being re-done, the Orange color is something I will take all the blame for. I looked at it in the sunlight & did not check the color indoors. So, my integrity demands that I assume the blame for that- I'm simply not a liar & never will be, so forgive me on that one All.

More soon, Chris REC
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  #159  
Old 11-13-2019, 07:49 AM
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awesome Chris, thanks for the update. can't wait to see them in person.
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  #160  
Old 11-13-2019, 07:39 PM
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A little confused here. So are the "orange" pieces being re-anodized to the correct gold color??

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Mmmkay so here's the status: In 7 days or less, I'll be finishing the centers that got messed up & needed re-ano- Ready to ship in a couple days, they ano, ship back. I need to keep that setup in place until they're done, so a bit of delay, but not really- I made a tool for the lathe to do the beadlock inner pieces, which were gonna have to wait but now I can get 'em while other stuff is happening (Re-ano etc.) All stubs cut, BOY lots faster doing plastic tubing than solid 3" metal rod.

After those, nuts will not take long, say 3 days. COA's just need stamped. So, within 15 days here is what should be all done: Centers, beadlock inserts, nuts, COA's, screws, & long tubes. leaving some minor but tedious finishing on the short tubes, packing, doing intsructions with assembly tips- You ARE gonna want to read 'em BEFORE assembling!-and I'm sure something else will pop up to be a pain.....

So yeah, these are gonna run right into Christmas, as an added friggin' bonus. This will not be a prob for the well-heeled but will be for the rest of us, so no worries, I will work with anyone who needs more time- I get it, indeed.

Finally, when I was dropping off the re-ano's, I compared their Orange to my centers. (Yes, Orange was the chosen color, as their Gold is Very light & would have actually looked worse.) In natural light, they match pretty well, and they look nice a warm Gold, as desired. It is the artificial light that these look so Orange in. Now, this makes no difference in the end, but while they did screw up $275 worth of black screws that I had to purchase to replace & a couple dozen centers that are stripped & are being re-done, the Orange color is something I will take all the blame for. I looked at it in the sunlight & did not check the color indoors. So, my integrity demands that I assume the blame for that- I'm simply not a liar & never will be, so forgive me on that one All.

More soon, Chris REC
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  #161  
Old 11-13-2019, 10:15 PM
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No, they are Orange, as there is no 'correct' Gold color- I'd sure have gone with that if they had it! Chris REC
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