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Scale 1.9's Scale trucks that use 1.9" tires. Discuss your XC and similar type trucks.


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  #91  
Old 01-26-2018, 11:12 AM
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caprinut caprinut is offline
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Got my wheels in the mail today
Me like a lot


Was a bit PITA to fit the Proline tires, but with help of 3 longer M3 bolts and some thin sleeves (stock screws use smaller head than normal allen head), they mounted up fairly easy when the first one was figured out.
Just make sure the wheel faces enter square with the inner ring and tighten each bolt little by little til they come together

I like them a lot.
With paint on this rig I think they will pop out even more


That all so far today, but I may have a update shortly
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  #92  
Old 01-26-2018, 10:49 PM
hillbillyrc hillbillyrc is offline
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Really liking the new wheels, gives it that old school hot rod feel.
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  #93  
Old 01-28-2018, 04:49 PM
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caprinut caprinut is offline
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Originally Posted by hillbillyrc View Post
Really liking the new wheels, gives it that old school hot rod feel.
Thanks
That's what I was after, the vintage look ish


Had a few hours yesterday and today and made a new battery box.


It's bent at the bottom for a reason.


As you can see, the lid pivots on that styrene bar.
Now the battery is securely fasten to the bed floor using welcro.
Tried welcro to the balsa wood first, no good as the welcro did unstick the balsa strips from the floor.
Next I wanted a plate on top of the balsa bits and then welcro on top.
Was far too bulky, and I have limited space to play with.
Then the lightbulb came on, just remove the balsa from hinged part and forward, welcro to the bedside floor itself, now the battery will never leave the vehicle in a roll over
As you can see, I've also removed the Futaba switches as mentioned last time, and fitted 3 toggle switches (3s, 5v and on/off).
Can still flip them even when battery is fitted


Now I need to find a solution to be able to lock the lid at front of the bed.
I have about 10x10mm up front under the lid to play with to be able to connect everything.
I'm not keen on the idea of body clips, if so the clips needs to be hidden by something and I won't block the rear view window because I like to see in into the cocpit.
Magnets would work, but I have only too small or too big ones left.
The small ones has failed on the previous battery cover, so it won't hold the lid in place is my suspections.

One of the ideas I play with is to have something like here.
Pretend that the metal bar at bottom is a small angle on top of the bedside behind the cab.
Then secure a couple of bolts to the angle facing forward and let the heads poke out of a pair of holes in the front wall of the bed.
Using a bolt, the angle, o-ring, battery lid, o-ring, washer and a nut or something to put on of the end of the bolt.


The idea is when pushing the bolt or thingy, the o-rings will then let the angle bracket slide away from the the bed wall and at same time pull out the bolt heads from the bed wall.
Problem is there is just about 5mm from where to holes ned to be for the push bolt thingy to the cab, and it needs to pushed forward to release.
One alternative is to mount that angle to the each of the bed sides, that way there is nothing to hinder the bolt to be moved outwards to open the lid.
But what should I cover the bolts with??
It needs to be light ish too as I don't want to add weight up high.
I could make it look like a work light mount......


As the last couple of times the battery lid will be covered in balsa and varnished.

Has also started on my Capri resto again, so this project will be done on evenings, when it's bad weather or when I'm not feeling too well but want to do some rc stuff.
My garage is 30min away, so I can't afford to do Capri stuff everyday anyway.

Rc is to keep my insanity intact
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  #94  
Old 01-30-2018, 01:08 PM
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Have been thinking real hard the last couple of days on how I needed to do the locking mechanism on the battery lid/door.

Most solutions would be to bulky, won't last and have a weak locking solution.

Led bulb came on as I sat now and stired on my project.
In my parts bin I have some small angle brackets that a mate made at his old workplace.
Worked perfectly for my need, so I placed them in the upper corner up front, and used the bolt that allready held the side and front wall together.


Then I used a square styrene rod, fitted some 3x2mm magnets at each ends, and then bolted the styrene bit to the lid.


Lid is now at even hight front and back.
That old Tamiya bottle is going to be my NOS bottle


The magnets is plenty strong to be able to lift the whole bed by the bottle.
That bottle will also double as a handle for the lid to open it.


Like so....


I'm very happy with that solution


As the lid is now done, I can carry on to cover it with balsa, and finish the rest of the bed, and rest of the build ofcourse
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  #95  
Old 01-30-2018, 01:50 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Nice work figuring it out man! Those magnets are pretty strong!
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  #96  
Old 01-30-2018, 01:58 PM
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Yeah, I like them.

And the complete bed is no lightweight either.
With the 3s 2200, it was 502grams.

Half without the battery or so.
Need to do the bed finished so I can do all the other stuff and drive it

Need to come up with a solution on the headers as well, because the bolts are too small to keep it on the motor during a trail ride.

Wonder if I can get rod magnets into each runner of header and engine to keep the headers in place.
I'm also going to fit those turbos, pipes etc..
If it won't work now, it won't work with all those bits added either.

But think cab is next
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  #97  
Old 02-02-2018, 07:45 AM
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Just a short update.

Painted the lid and glued on the balsa after one coat of varnish.

Weather was nice today, but very cold.
So I snapped some pics while I could








Just have to finish the rest of the rig now lol
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  #98  
Old 02-02-2018, 08:44 AM
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25aniv 25aniv is offline
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Wow! Just checked back in to see how this rig was coming along. Love the wheels and the solutions to your fitment issues too. Nitrous is a good intake "intercooler" for pressurized turbo air when you just don't have the room for full on water-to-air coolers
Great work
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  #99  
Old 02-13-2018, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 25aniv View Post
Wow! Just checked back in to see how this rig was coming along. Love the wheels and the solutions to your fitment issues too. Nitrous is a good intake "intercooler" for pressurized turbo air when you just don't have the room for full on water-to-air coolers
Great work
Thank you very much


I've had a idea in my head for a while that I needed to set to life.

First I tried to make a scale Optima style battery myself, it turned out, well let's just say it was not pretty nor accurate..

Next I got a mate to print out some Thingverse files for me.
I had a idea to turn the scale battery to a real battery sort of, meaning giving power out..
Here I have fitted a couple of 2mm bolts to the 3d print battery for test..


My idea is to fit those terminals on top of battery and some wires out and a connector.
That way I can hook up let say a 3s battery and use the terminals for something.
This is the bottom of the battery


Was looking a bit better when starting, but I found out one of the wires was broken, so I had to replace the wire after it was glued in.


A lick of paint and it was looking much more like a Optima ish..
This is really just a test.
Have to make a better one later.


Also added the side terminals.
Heads on the M1.6 looks a little big here.


Also made a start on a new floor.
The old lower version made it a bit cramped under there as I had Y connections for most channels, battery connector and 3s, 5v and on/off power among other stuff.
Bought 4x M3 standoffs at 25mm and made a new floor.
ESC was also moved from standing up , to sitton on the rock slider.

Also started on a false firewall as I need the motor wires to be hidden and it will also be the mounting point for the dashboard.
I will make a air duct channel to the esc as well since the fresh air vent in front of the windshield is open.


As soon as the main structure of the dashboard and center consol is made I can move over to the body so it will see some paint before the summer

I love towing a trailer and my plan is to mount a pintle hook in back of the bed, like one of these


So today I started in the mounting bracket for the pintle hook.
Some 4mm aluminium plate, countersunk 6mm bolts with a nut on the backside and stuffed into the SCX II bumper mount I'm using..
The rollpan will be sandwiched between this mount and the pintle hook.


Need to cut down to right size and sand it smooth


And cut down the bolt when all is finished.
Just test fitted with some grub screws, plan to use bolts and access holes in the rollpan when finished.



Don't seem to be much progress but these things takes time.
And my LHS will be selling winches soon, I will be one of the test pilots for those, so I may change out the current winchservo setup.

And yes, I have tested the scale battery and it works
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  #100  
Old 02-14-2018, 07:22 AM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Nice work on the battery! Will like to see it power some stuff! Would be cool for sure! The back is coming along nicely! Great idea on the towing hook!
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  #101  
Old 02-16-2018, 12:27 PM
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caprinut caprinut is offline
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Originally Posted by Trini2DBone View Post
Nice work on the battery! Will like to see it power some stuff! Would be cool for sure! The back is coming along nicely! Great idea on the towing hook!
Thanks my friend

I did make a video, but it turned out c.r.a.p.
My cellphone is no good indoors (what I filmed with), and my camera have sound issues (sounds like a storm by the sea).
I may record another one in a few days

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Did the rollcage the other morning.
Started first by making the bar at the bottom of the windshield.
Drilled the main hoops first with 1.5mm drill bit, then 2.5mm so I could run a set screw throuh the hoop.
I use 3/16 copper brake line, which works great with 3mm bolt if you make the tube a little narrow at the ends.
I simply used a side cutter for that.
Set screw threads in the main hoop, then into the bar.




From the inside..


Then the rear roof bar.
Drilled one of the holes in a wrong angle, but by twisting and bending and some sanding I got there in the end..


Tight is the right word.
1mm furter back or up, the body won't fit!!


Naked..


Made a start on the dashboard.
This is my second try as the first one broke due the complicated curves


Hung the dashboard from the false firewall


So now I know where stuff goes under the body, so I can start on the bodywork..
Or maybe some scale motor work, right Trini?
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  #102  
Old 02-16-2018, 09:06 PM
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DIRTY BA5TARD DIRTY BA5TARD is offline
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great job !
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  #103  
Old 02-16-2018, 10:56 PM
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TDIZook TDIZook is offline
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Nice Work,I like the battery idea.
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  #104  
Old 02-17-2018, 10:30 AM
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danielk danielk is offline
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You promised me twin turbos! I'm noticing a distinct lack of turboing.
Progress is looking great!
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  #105  
Old 02-17-2018, 04:02 PM
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caprinut caprinut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTY BA5TARD View Post
great job !
Thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIZook View Post
Nice Work,I like the battery idea.
Thanx

Quote:
Originally Posted by danielk View Post
You promised me twin turbos! I'm noticing a distinct lack of turboing.
Progress is looking great!
I will work on the snailhouse department shortly
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