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  #31  
Old 05-26-2013, 11:30 AM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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And here are the shocks, before and after modding. I just cut and filed the top attachment. See you also need extra spring seat adjusters because there is only one per shock, so I odered a set of 4 (two of which are longer, but I did not mind, actually that was good as I was not sure which lenght would be better).

I think this seller stil sells used shocks like these. Look for losi xxx shocks, or someing like that. Make sure you get the proper lenght as there are like 3 or 4 different lenghts and the body all look the same.

Edit: the seller where I got these does not have any more for sale. Make sure you get the threaded body version, as there are also the smooth body with clamp collar type. As for the lenght, here are the measurements of the ones I got:

Body lenght: 1.835 before cutting (including plastic cap)
Lenght: 3.345 overall outer lenght including the plastic ball end, or 2.9" eye to eye.
Diameter: approx 0.5"

After modding the shock body is 0.455" including plastic cap. Shock travel is 0.75"

Looks like 2" long soft springs will fit nicely! Its nice these losi shocks have the cap at the shaft instead of at the top of the shock, so I can cut the top mounting eye and have very little space required on the knuckle (the shock is almost contacting the strut lower ball end)

Fred



Last edited by Frederik : 12-26-2018 at 04:53 PM.
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  #32  
Old 05-26-2013, 12:29 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Hey thanks for the pics and instructions Fred !! Will definitely try to build a set of these!
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  #33  
Old 05-26-2013, 09:01 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Originally Posted by Trini2DBone View Post
Hey thanks for the pics and instructions Fred !! Will definitely try to build a set of these!
No problem! Would you happen to have m-chassis wheels and tires handy to try on the escort? I know they are smaller but use 12mm hex, I was considering those for a scale look (escort often have tiny wheels and tires) but was wondering if they are too small.

Edit: I kept searching and it looks like the m-chassis wheels and tires might be somewhat correct size based on my small sketches in autocad. They are same width (about 24mm) but 55 or 60mm tire diameter instead of like 65 for regular touring car tires, which looks too large for the mk2 to start with.

But having smaller wheel diameter there might be clearance issues with the hub, especially up front. I *might* order a set to test it out

Last edited by Frederik : 05-27-2013 at 03:56 PM.
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  #34  
Old 05-28-2013, 06:52 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Decided on m chassis minilites wheels with 60D tires, it should have the small yet meaty look just like the real thing

I am pretty sure I'll be able to adapt my front struts so they fit inside the wheels nicely. Will post some pics when they arrive.

Fred
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  #35  
Old 05-28-2013, 07:43 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
Decided on m chassis minilites wheels with 60D tires, it should have the small yet meaty look just like the real thing

I am pretty sure I'll be able to adapt my front struts so they fit inside the wheels nicely. Will post some pics when they arrive.

Fred
Hey Fred, nope no m chassis wheels and tires here... Yea, I noticed a lot of the pics online showed the wheels and tires being a lot smaller...looking forward to your pics to see how they fit and look with the escort!
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  #36  
Old 05-30-2013, 08:22 AM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Hey Fred, just occurred to me as Klampykix was asking on my thread about the front brakes, what are your plans for brakes? Or are you gonna run it like it is? Reason I'm asking is seeing that you are still in the designing stage of the front strut, maybe you can look at including a disc brake setup as well! That will definitely be scale and cool !
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  #37  
Old 06-01-2013, 07:59 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Yes that would definately be a cool add on to the front strut. I think if i do I will probably try a home made one. The brake attachment would be easily integrated to one of the two sandwitched plates by making the plate wider. The challenge will be the space, especially with the m-chassis wheels!

I might start as is with rear brakes only (wooohooo hand brake mayhem lol) but I will at least think of how to do it in the process. And you never know with these projects, I might end up integrating them sooner than later!

I have a set of the chinese disk brakes (cosmetic only). They dont fit very well at all, they tend to make the wheel wobble or mis-centered. The hex and the axle pin receptacle is fairly sloppy and the tolerances are not very good. Also the dont fit with half the wheels I have (some wheels hit the disk and if you keep tightening you bend the rotors, happened on one of them). If I am going to do the brakes, not sure if I would base them on these cheap disks... Might look at the better ones like yours. Do they seem to fit snugly over the axle and pin? Is the hex a pretty tight fit with the wheels too?

Last edited by Frederik : 02-14-2016 at 07:33 PM.
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  #38  
Old 06-01-2013, 08:41 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
Yes that would definately be a coolmadd on to the front strut. I think if i do I will probably try a home made one. The brake attachment would be easily integrated to one of the two sandwitched plates by making the plate wider. The challenge will be the space, especially with the m-chassis wheels!

I might start as is with rear brakes only (wooohooo hand brake mayhem lol) but I will at least think of how to do it in the process. And you never know with these projects, I might end up integrating them sooner than later!

I have a set of the chinese disk brakes (cosmetic only). They dont fit very well at all, they tend to make the wheel wobble or mis-centered. The hex and the axle pin receptacle is fairly sloppy and the tolerances are high. Also the dont fit with half the wheels I have (some wheels hit the disk and if you keep tightening you bend the rotors, happened on one of them). If I am going to do the brakes, not sure if I would base them on these cheap disks... Mjght look at the better ones like yours. Do they seem to fit snugly over the axle and pin? Is the hex a pretty tight fit with the wheels too?
Yes they are spot on for the axles and the pin. They also come with an o- ring that fits on the axle after you install the the disc. It fits into a space recessed into the hex, this O- ring keeps the entire disc from sliding on the axle! And the hex fits like a regular Tamiya hex i.e perfectly!
I will post up a pic in a couple of minutes so you can see what I mean....also, the disc were a set of 4. 2 front and 2 rear! the fronts being larger were perfect for my application so I still have the second set of the rear discs. I will measure them up and you can check the inner diameter of the mini wheels when you get them. I also bought spare calipers and brake pads so I could also assemble one and see how it fits on the smaller discs. If it looks like it may fit your application, I'm sure we can work something out!
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  #39  
Old 06-01-2013, 08:46 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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These pics should show you what I mean with the O-ring!
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  #40  
Old 06-01-2013, 09:37 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Thanks for the pics! Otherwise I would have thought the o-ring recess was behind the disc but I see it is on the outside. How did you go about driving the brake servo? I plan on reusing my small futaba esc (the same esc I am transplanting between my TB-01, myosho mp-6 and micro RS4 lol) and I am not sure how I would be driving a brake servo. Do you just splice the wires to feed two servos in parallel ?

Edit: as for the brakes, I have noticed the cheaper wheels are more likely to rotate off center after tightening on the axle, whereas tamiya wheels (and some other better quality "aftermarket" wheels) mouts perfectly centered every time. When looking on ebay you see all kind of wheels for very cheap. While I still like thefact they are available for that cheap, the fitment really is not on par with tamiya stuff imo.
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  #41  
Old 06-01-2013, 09:47 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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The diameter of the disc is 30mms. The thickness at the hex is 7mms. Will try to assemble the caliper tomorrow and take a pic!
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  #42  
Old 06-01-2013, 09:56 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederik View Post
Thanks for the pics! Otherwise I would have thought the o-ring recess was behind the disc but I see it is on the outside. How did you go about driving the brake servo? I plan on reusing my small futaba esc (the same esc I am transplanting between my TB-01, myosho mp-6 and micro RS4 lol) and I am not sure how I would be driving a brake servo. Do you just splice the wires to feed two servos in parallel ?

Edit: as for the brakes, I have noticed the cheaper wheels are more likely to rotate off center after tightening on the axle, whereas tamiya wheels (and some other better quality "aftermarket" wheels) mouts perfectly centered every time. When looking on ebay you see all kind of wheels for very cheap. While I still like thefact they are available for that cheap, the fitment really is not on par with tamiya stuff imo.
I am using a 4 channel stick radio for the car. Left stick - up is accelration/ forward and down is rear wheel brake (ESC/ motor brake) and also is reverse by tapping down twice.
Right stick is left and right (horizontal) and right stick down is front disc brake. Therefore front brake is independant of ESC programming.
Seemed easier than having to muck about with brake bias using a 3 ch pistol radio. Besides I kinda borrowed it off my semi truck lol!
So will probably just pick up another 4 ch receiver for the truck, this way I can use the same transmitter with either vehicle!
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  #43  
Old 06-01-2013, 10:01 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Ha...! I meant right stick...steering left and right and down is front brake! Corrected it above now!
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  #44  
Old 06-01-2013, 10:04 PM
Frederik Frederik is offline
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Haha yes now that you say it I remember you were initially learning to control the brakes with this setup. I was thinking I could drive the esc and a servo at the same time by tapping into a servo cable and feed the same signal to both the esc and brake servo? The extra travel caused by fwd movement would just be lost in loose cable. But then I guess I would be sending brake signal when trying to actually go reverse mmm.... Why no simple? Lol

Last edited by Frederik : 06-01-2013 at 10:17 PM.
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  #45  
Old 06-01-2013, 10:17 PM
Trini2DBone Trini2DBone is offline
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Haha yes now that you say it I remember you were initially learning to control the brakes with this setup. I am thinking you could drive the esc and a servo at the same time by tapping into a servo cable and feed the same signal to both the esc and brake servo? The extra travel caused by fwd movement would just be lost in loose cable. But then I guess I would be sending brake signal when trying to actually go reverse mmm.... Why no simple? Lol
Exactly! Lol! Figured the 4 channel was the easier way out...besides didn't want to spring for another radio system...! Lol!
I'm hoping with my setup I can initiate slides while going forward, turning the steering but pulling back slightly on the steering stick to activate the front brakes, all the while maintaining throttle speed or even increasing it! Lol! I will see how that goes....!
Almost finished with the interior....my proper camera fell and now the flash don't work! So I will have to take the pics outside in the daytime...these I did tonight with my cell phone so they are kinda crappy! Lol!
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