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Scale 4x2 and Buggy R/C vehicles This is the place to put your Sand Scorchers, Bajas and other various 2wd offroad R/C's


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  #16  
Old 12-17-2005, 10:07 AM
davkin davkin is offline
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Fixing the stripped holes on the body should be easy since it's styrene. What you need is some solvent type glue for styrene model kits. My two fav brands are Tenax R7 and Ambroid ProWeld, (the liquid stuff, not the stuff in a tube.) I don't know if those brands area available in the UK though. In a pinch MEK will work, you can find that at any decent hardware store. Then you need some styrene rod that's a little bigger O.D. than the I.D. of the hole for the screw. You could even just drill the hole out to match the rod you have available if there's room. Now put a fair amount of liquid solvent into the hole and coat the rod with it as well. Stick the rod in the whole and apply more solvent to the joint. Give it at least an hour or so to cure. Now you should be able to re-drill new holes for the screws.

David
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2005, 10:13 AM
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ah.. I see, so your adding more plastic to tap into? thats sounds sensible... :chug:

:banana:
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  #18  
Old 12-20-2005, 08:43 AM
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update: I have got the bodywork bits and bobs and new tyres for the scorcher:







I put it all together briefly to see what it would look like, before stripping the paint...

I only put it together using blu-tack putty as it seems the details such as rear lights, VW badge etc seem to glue in place, when it comes to putting it back together what sort of glue is best for this? what do Tamiya recommend?

:banana:
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  #19  
Old 12-20-2005, 08:56 AM
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another update:this is how they look now having had the paint stripped

The GH has new rims, which is a shame because it was only the outer piece of the one rim that was wrecked(I've cleaned the other 5 pieces for spares). and the paints is stripped off, I do intend to repair the lid and paint over it white eventually(maybe get some stock decals too if it wont cost me a fortune).







the Sand scorcher is not back in one piece due the probs stripping paint of its rims, but the shell came out nice:





some paint remains around the rear window/vent but It has had 2 treatments with oven cleaner to get to this stage, so I dont wnat to strip much more off.


again I intend to paint it white(well white and french blue like the box art) - something the original owner neglected(he has clearly just sprayed the blue bits with a lacquer style paint so that the areas stripped of blue paint now look so white that they make the non painted areas look yellow...

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  #20  
Old 12-20-2005, 09:49 AM
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Spoon your Sand Scorcher looks great so far. For gluing the hard plastic body I recommend Plastic weld. This stuff actually melts the plastic together which gives it a better bond than Epoxy.



There are similar glues under different names so your hobby shop should be able to steer you in the right direction.

As for the nose cone, I would ditch the Blitzer cone. Itís a different shape than the sand scorcher one. The cone from a monster beetle is the same as the sand scorcher; it just has tabs on the bottom. It even has the ghost images for the indicator holes.
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  #21  
Old 12-20-2005, 01:11 PM
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will the SS be a runner? cuz if it will be, I'd ditch the stock shocks (the ones with the spring seperate from the shock itself) for some coil over shocks. MrB can help you with that. and I;d also ditch the radio box, but maybe make a battery holder out of styrene (open top, but use velcro straps to hold the battery in) and have the RX and ESC on whatever room there is left on the chassis. but MrB should be able to help you more on this than I, as I don't even have a SS (yet)!
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  #22  
Old 12-20-2005, 02:15 PM
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Great resto work spoon. :nice: It seems very likely that you have a e-bay problem going by this and your new little babies........


What is your ebay user name?????????I will put forward your name to be banned from e-bay! :banana:
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  #23  
Old 12-20-2005, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Slyp Dawg@Dec 20 2005, 02:11 PM
I;d also ditch the radio box, but maybe make a battery holder out of styrene (open top, but use velcro straps to hold the battery in) and have the RX and ESC on whatever room there is left on the chassis.
You're joking right? The sealed raio box is the best part about the sand scorcher. It allowed you to splash through puddles without killing your radio equipment



I will agree on the coil overs, it allows the stock damper to work a bit better
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  #24  
Old 12-20-2005, 04:30 PM
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well this is the thing I do want it to be a runner, but if you see what I mean I never intended collecting buggies yet these two will be my 5th and 6th buggies in my collection.... so I dont really need to make them high performance, for the SS I want to get it some way restored to stock, making provision for tthings such as ball bearings(already in at this point) and an ESC, at this point I'll be happy if it runs at all....

I dunno about the coilovers, I'll have to wait until I've driven it stock...

the Radio box may have to go on the basis that the one I have is wrecked and its not like I have the broken pieces to glue back together all I have is most of the lower section of the box and some very jagged edges at the front....(like as if its managed to crash into something radio box first). Kamtec does make a replacement/repro unit I dunno if I should try to use that rather than just making a Radio tray myself. I dont intend to go fording through rivers with this thing.. :lol:

Sho - I never knew the Blitzer nosecone was different? is it worth tracking down a scorcher or Monster beetle nosecone given that I would like it to look stock? I'm concerned that certainly on ebay.co.uk they fetch a pretty penny and are so infrequently listed that when one does come along its hot property....

the funny thing is too I kinda like the orange nosecone, I had entertained the notion of painting it neon orange.... :poke: so I ordered white, french blue and clear Tamiya sprays.... :lol:

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  #25  
Old 12-20-2005, 06:00 PM
davkin davkin is offline
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Quote:
You're joking right? The sealed raio box is the best part about the sand scorcher. It allowed you to splash through puddles without killing your radio equipment

Yes it does, but the bellcrank style steering it requires makes the steering rather sloppy from what I understand. I don't have mine yet but if this true I'll be ditching the radio box as well and converting to direct steer as Mr B did with his. I intend to drive mine quite a bit so I want it perform well.

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  #26  
Old 12-20-2005, 07:52 PM
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Slop in the steering doesn't necessarily come from the steering bell crank; it mainly comes from the front suspension arms and cups that hold the knuckle arm on. On my runner I switched out the stock steering crank with one from a super champ.

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  #27  
Old 12-21-2005, 05:08 AM
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mine doesnt have a front body post/bellcrank anyway, if I can find out the height its supposed to be I may machine a body post on the lathe and make my own custom steering.

Sho - could you measure the height of the sand scorchers stock body post for me please? (specifically the height between the chassis and the step where the body sits - i.e. how far above the chassis the body sits).

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  #28  
Old 01-16-2006, 12:10 PM
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Update:

I've fitted the parts MrB sent me:

New bumper:


pic shows a Rough rider body post scored off Ebay by mistake(I saw 'sand scorcher.. body post...etc' with 20 second remaining when I logged on...lol)

new rear arm to replace the one I broke (D'oh! :banghead: )


however whilst fitting this I noticed the rear cage should have some mounts under here somewhere... more on that later...



I got some proper plastic glue sorted out so we now have body details attached, and I have tried using some putty to fill in gaps and marks but it needs more smoothing I just got bored after a while.... looks alright IMO tho, just not quite smooth enough to paint yet(I do now have the proper paint colours too btw):





the green stuff is putty - the aptly named Citadel ministures "green stuff" :lol:

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  #29  
Old 01-16-2006, 12:37 PM
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a bit more update:

the rear cage was annoying me as I would like this to be stock(ish) and yet NIP rear cages are £30+ on ebay and the cage I have is largely intact bar the lower mounting points. so I put my thinking cap on.... and came up with this:



this is how it works:



I cut off the remains of the lower mounts level to a distance equivalent to the length of some spare rod ends, the cage was then carefully drilled and tapped M3, lengths of threaded rod added, and the the spare rod ends simply screw on, the beauty of this is if the lower mount breaks its just a rod end and can be replaced.. :excited:

looks better than before huh?





in addition as I have been totally unable to get any answers to "how high should the front body post be?" I thought sod it! and made one with an educated guess of 76mm high(and studying ebay pics of what it should look like). this is my approximation:



the body sits almost level(fractionally nose down, but I think thats correct):



it now even has a body pin...



on a lesser note I did some soldering too... I was going to solder on the stock wires, but it occured why not put proper RC gear on it...I am going to run the thing after all...



rather modern equipment for a Sand scorcher but it makes me happy.. :excited:

so the rear pod is pretty much done, gears, wires, grease, threadlock and all:




I still need to sort out a Radio tray and some sort of steering setup. and finsih the body work and paint it.

I have some new rims on the way... once they arrive I'll be able to see how the ride height of the lid really looks....

:banana:
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  #30  
Old 01-16-2006, 05:24 PM
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It's really coming along nicely Spoon!

David
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